bigger metronomes

Dedicated to those large boxes at one end of the room
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cressy
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#16

Post by cressy »

what i was planning to do is to cut the material to the correct shapes for the panels then use the table saw to create a tounge on the side panels all the way from top to bottom of both sides. i will then cut the corresponding grooves in the back interior side of the front and back panels. this should then be able to be glued giving a nice strong joint. if the glue is applied to the inside of the grooves in strips about 20cm long then a gap left in the glue every so often that should allow for expansion and contraction of the joint the saw is adjustable every which way so i can set the depth of the cuts easily enough.
the acrylic supplier would cut all the panels in the same confuguration for me so they could just be slotted to gether in the same way. they quoted 375 though for the material, cutting and finishing. but wouldnt they look awesome!
the actual manufacture of the parts wouldnt be a problem with any of the materials as the tools are there apart from a biscuit joiner. youve set me off now toppsy i might have to buy one just to say ive got one! (youve uncovered another vice of mine, i bought the table saw to make the casework fo the amp!)
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#17

Post by cressy »

i just got the subs today, they are rather heavy buggers and look like they should be spot on for what i need. what do we reckon? im going to lash up some crappy cabs over the weekend and see if i can get them working
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cressy
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#18

Post by cressy »

i just had a thought. could i just stick the bass driver on the side of the metronome cab? if i put it on the side a little lower than the fostex in its own enclosure just attatched to the main cabinet as a mirror image for left and right, it shouldnt make any difference to the tqwt part of the cab. if its sealed then the only interaction between the drivers should be the cabinet vibrating. or is this the several bottles of bulmers talking?
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cressy
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#19

Post by cressy »

i recived my fe127es today (sorry mr thebass i cant see ay more on the global flea market, perhaps simon hid some in his hand luggage!), so my evil plan to disturb the neighbours even more is almost complete mwa ha ha ha, just a question, can i get a set of phase plugs for these? ive been warned not to spend any more money at the moment unless i sell a kidney by swmbo, so these are for later if theyre available. does anyone konw? cheers guys
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al newall
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#20

Post by al newall »

could i just stick the bass driver on the side of the metronome
Might work for you. This is more or less what i did with my 5 foot high tapered thingys, except the bass units were on the front.

Sounded better to me with the FR coming in at around 150Hz. Running it full range with the big driver installed, made the bass sort of confused and muffled.
Worth a try.
Much to learn there is.
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al newall
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#21

Post by al newall »

can i get a set of phase plugs for these?
If you know someone who does woodturning, you could get some made for the price of a pint maybe..
Like wot i did.
Mine seemed to have the desired effect.
Again worth a try.
Much to learn there is.
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Dave the bass
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#22

Post by Dave the bass »

cressy wrote:i recived my fe127es today (sorry mr thebass i cant see ay more on the global flea market, perhaps simon hid some in his hand luggage!), so my evil plan to disturb the neighbours even more is almost complete mwa ha ha ha, just a question, can i get a set of phase plugs for these[/b]


Oooh! I've got some of them's on the way from Dave at P10.

Re- Phase Plugs, there's a warning on his site about removing the centre cap, more reading here... http://www.planet10-hifi.com/FE127.html

DTB

(Audio Talk 127eN appreciation club!)
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#23

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#24

Post by cressy »

thanks for that scott, the surgery to do it is offputting as it so if theres no sonic gains i'll not bother
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#25

Post by cressy »

ive been thinking about the crossover design on these speakers and even though theres a plethora of info out there i cant figure it out. i was going to make a simple low pass filter for the subs but ive no idea how to make it cross over at the right frequency. the filter looks simple but how do i know the component values? as you guys know, electronics isnt my forte, anything mechanical that i can hit with things if it doesnt work is my thing. i was going to just bang in the q55 crossover to get them going. ie just stick it in a box after the amp and run the sub off the lf side and the fostex off the hf side. i thing i need to invest abit of time into reading up on these things really. is there any recommended reading on crossovers?
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#26

Post by cressy »

well the fe127e metronomes are half done. left to do before setting them up is the top and bottom panels, cutting the driver holes and adding the legs. the inner height of the cabs was 48" according to the plans so rather than having to buy 2 sheets of ply to get the total panel height of just short of 52", ive cut the panels to that size and will add the top and bottom panels to the outer edges rather than inset them. rather than the arches im just adding legs for now to get the port the correct height off the floor. a comprimise i know but worth it for ease of making and saving 50 quid on another sheet of ply. im going to make a set of arches to be attached to the bases later when ive got the time. well see what difference it makes having legs on instead first. we are still deciding on the finish so im leaving them bare for now
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#27

Post by cressy »

have now cut the driver holes and fitted the panels, tomorrow, a top and bottom!........... apparently they are going to be the same platinum silver colour as the amp...........or a nice shade of beige???? no chance!
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what a lovely pair.............. bad joke
what a lovely pair.............. bad joke
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#28

Post by Dave the bass »

Whahey!

A fellow speaker-builder! Looking good Anthony.

DTB
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#29

Post by cressy »

got abit more done, added the tops and done some sanding and filling, (i wasnt about to pay 50 quid per sheet for birch ply, so got some 'best' ply and its full of voids. bugger. quite abit of filling required) primered them in white and looking good. havent added the bases yet as ive a few ideas for this part, i.e having the base with the port in bigger than the base itself by about 38mm all round, using 28mm dowelling in the corners for the leg parts that raise it up by the required 4" off the ground then another base under that with spikes on. this is after the old man put some beech chopping boards under the 108s and got better overall performance having a flat reflective surface under them rather than sound absorbing carpet. i think they look quite good in the white primer. unfortunately rain has stopped play for now so it might be down to the local diy store for something to make the bases.......... if swmbo decides to come back from wherever it is shes gone (not a good idea taking the kids in a diy shop is it)
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#30

Post by cressy »

now added the bases, will add the legs tomorrow and attempt to get them fired up!
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